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Hack 19 Get the Big Picture with a Panorama

They say two heads are better than one. When it
comes to showing the "big picture,"
many headser, shotsare definitely bigger than
one.

Many people are frustrated
by their inability to capture the majesty of awesome natural
monuments such as the Grand Canyon. I've heard this
phrase a dozen times: "This picture
doesn't really do it justice. It looked so fantastic
when I was there."

Bad photography isn't the culprit here; inadequate
coverage is.

Let me ask you this: if you went to the Grand Canyon and had to look
at it through a toilet-paper tube, how impressive would you think it
was? Probably not much. The same thing happens when you try to
capture the magnificence of a vast location with single shots on your
point and shoot. This doesn't mean that you have to
go out and buy a camera with a superwide lens. Instead, put the magic
of digital photography to work for you.

Almost every digital camera available today is capable of creating
breathtaking panoramas by stitching together a series of shots into
one gigantic, seamless scene. Back in the days of film, you probably
played around with this technique by taping together snapshots to
make a bigger picture. One of my favorite artists, David
Hockney, put
a creative spin on this technique with works such as
"The Brooklyn Bridge Nov
28th 1982" and
"Pearblossom Hwy."
Hockney's works are usually referred to as
photographic collages. But the concept is
similar to our exploration heretaking a bunch of small images
and combining them to make a big picture.

Unlike Hockney's work, however, our panoramas are
very linear, moving from left to right. If your camera has a Panorama
mode, use it; it helps you capture the images in a way
that's easier for your computer to deal with later.
That's the process. You shoot 3 to 12 pictures,
moving from left to right, then upload them to your computer where
they can be stitched together as a sweeping vista.

Let's start with the
shooting technique.
You'll get the best results if you use a tripod, and
you'll have even better luck if you have a bubble
level to go with it. That way, you can align your camera to keep a
straight horizon line through the entire picture-taking sequence. If
your tripod doesn't have a built-in level, go to the
camera store to buy one that attaches to your
camera's hot shoe.


See Figure 8-19 if you want to know if your camera
has a hot shoe or not. It's a bracket, typically
about the size of a postage stamp, primarily designed to accommodate
an external flash.

Look for a location with the sun to your back. Most panoramas cover
about 180°. You want the lighting as even as possible on
that scene so that you don't have abrupt shifts in
the color of the sky, which makes it more difficult to stitch
together the scene and end up with continuous tones.

Once you have your camera mounted and aligned, swing through the
scene and follow the horizon line to make sure it stays level.


Don't compose the shot in such a way that the
horizon line splits the frame in half. Either move the horizon line
down to the lower third of the composition, making a big-sky shot, or
move it to the upper third of the frame, creating a rich landscape.

If your camera has a Panorama mode, enable it. Otherwise, just make
sure you overlap one third of the frame as you move from shot to
shot. This will give your computer lots of information to stitch the
scenes together.

Swing the camera to point in the direction of your left shoulder and
shoot the first frame. Move the camera one frame to the right
(remembering to overlap the scene by one third) and shoot again. Work
all the way through the sequence until your capture the scene in the
direction of your right shoulder.

Review your images on your camera's LCD monitor. If
you like the way they look, you're finished.
Otherwise, recompose and shoot the series again.

If you don't have a tripod with you, shooting a
panorama is still possible. Put the strap around your neck and extend
the camera until the strap is taunt. Align your first shot to the
left and fire. Don't move the camera after the
exposure. Instead move only your feet and align the next shot.
Essentially you have turned yourself into a human tripod.

Pay close attention to the horizon line as you work through the
sequence. You won't get the full height of the scene
by using this method, because you're bound to
misalign the camera slightly as you work through the series of shots.
But you can crop the picture after stitching and still get an
amazingly good panorama.

Here's an example of the technique in action.
Standing on a balcony overlooking New York's Grand
Central Station gives you an inspiring view. So why does the picture
in Figure 2-6 look so uninspiring?

Now take a look at Figure 2-7. Ah, now
that's better! By stitching six shots together from
a Canon Digital Elph S-400, I was able to
show how Grand Central really looks to my friends back home.

Cameras with a Panorama mode will label the pictures
differently than your standard single shots, so you can easily
identify them when you start working on the computer. The normal
image file will look something like
IMG_0001_JPG. But on Canon cameras, for example,
panorama files should read something like this:
STA_0006_JPG, STB_0007_JPG,
STC_0008_JPG, and so on. You can look at these
files and right away know which one was first in the series
(STA), second (STB), and so
on.

Once your pictures have been uploaded to your computer, you can
either use the stitching software that came with your
camera, or the Photomerge function in
Photoshop Elements or Photoshop CS. Either way, the software will
endeavor to stitch together the sequence of files into a continuous
composition. The more careful you are when you record the scene, the
more success you'll have when working on the
computer.


Figure 2-6. An uninspiring photo of an inspiring view

Even if your camera doesn't have a Panorama mode,
you can still use Photoshop to connect the shots. The pictures
won't be labeled differently, so
you'll have to preview them, figure out the order in
which they were shot, and then move them into Photomerge. Photoshop
will take it from there.


Figure 2-7. A panoramic composite of the same view

One of the great advantages of shooting panoramas is that your
3-megapixel camera suddenly becomes an 18-megapixel monster when you
stitch together six 3-megapixel shots. You can make prints that are 3
feet wide instead of just a regular old single-frame 4" 6".

Many camera stores carry frames in panorama dimensions. You can print
your final composition on 8.5" 11" inkjet paper, trim it, and display
it in one of these frames. I guarantee that it will make a much more
powerful impression than the original 4" 6" print that just
didn't do the scene justice.


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