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3.3 Installing a Motherboard


Installing a motherboard for the first time intimidates most people,
but it's really pretty easy if you do it by the
numbers. Before you get started, prepare a well-lighted working area,
ideally one with all-around access. The kitchen table (appropriately
protected) or a similar surface usually works well. Have all tools
and parts organized and ready to go. Open the box of each new
component, verify contents against the manual or packing list to make
sure no parts are missing, examine the components to ensure they
appear undamaged, and do at least a quick read-through of the manual
to familiarize yourself with the products.


See also Chapter 28 for photographs of this process.


3.3.1 Removing the Old Motherboard



If
you are replacing a motherboard, you must remove the old motherboard
before installing the new one. The exact steps vary according to the
motherboard and case, but use the following general steps:

    Power down the PC and all attached devices. Disconnect all external
    cables other than the power cord, noting which cable connects to
    which port. Then move the PC to your work area and remove the cover
    from the case. We can attest that one wayward case screw can destroy
    a vacuum cleaner, so put the screws safely aside. An old egg carton
    or ice cube tray makes a good parts organizer.

    If the PC power cord is connected to an outlet strip, surge
    suppressor, or UPS, turn off the main power switch on that device,
    and turn off the main PC power switch as well. This removes power
    from the PC, but leaves the PC grounded.


    With nearly all
    AT form factor power supplies and motherboards, turning off the PC
    power switch actually removes all power from the motherboard. With
    ATX (and variant) power supplies and motherboards, turning off the
    main PC power switch leaves some power flowing to the motherboard,
    which supports such features as Wake-on-Ring
    (WOR), Wake-on-LAN
    (WOL), and Suspend to RAM
    (STR).



    Although the voltage present
    is much too small to cause personal injury, working on a powered ATX
    motherboard may damage the motherboard, CPU, memory, or other
    components. Best practice when working on ATX motherboards is to use
    an outlet strip or other device to remove power from the PC entirely.
    If you must work on an ATX motherboard and have no such device,
    disconnect the power cord from the wall receptacle before beginning
    work. To avoid damaging components, touch the power supply to ground
    yourself before handling the motherboard, CPU, memory, or other
    static-sensitive components.

    Even if you follow these procedures,
    defective wiring or other components could cause a high-voltage
    shock. For absolute safety, disconnect the PC power cord from the
    wall receptacle. (Our lawyers made us say that.)

    Note the position and orientation of
    each internal cable connected to an expansion card. If necessary,
    sketch or photograph the connections to make sure you can reconnect
    the cables as they were, and then remove those cables on the
    expansion card. Remove the expansion cards and set them aside,
    preferably on an antistatic surface, although a plain tabletop also
    works well. Alternatively, you may be able to leave the cables
    connected to the expansion cards and simply place the cards out of
    the way, perhaps balanced on top of the power supply.

    Label and disconnect each cable that
    connects to the system board, including those to the power supply, to
    the front panel switches and LEDs, to back panel I/O ports, and to
    fans. When you complete this step, the motherboard should not have
    any obvious connections other than the mounting screws.

    In most cases, the motherboard mounts
    directly to a fixed part of the chassis. In some cases, the
    motherboard mounts to a removable tray. If your motherboard uses a
    tray, remove the screws that secure the tray to the chassis and then
    lift the tray out carefully, watching for overlooked cable
    connections. Depending on the motherboard form factor, there may be
    from three to a dozen or more screws securing the motherboard to the
    chassis or tray. One or more screw holes may be occupied by nylon
    spacers that snap in from the bottom of the motherboard and slide
    into slots in the chassis. If the motherboard is secured only by
    screws, remove all of them and then attempt to remove the motherboard
    by lifting gently straight up. If one or more nylon spacers are
    present (visible as small white nubs sticking up through screw
    holes), rather than lift the mother board straight up, slide it
    gently a fraction of an inch toward the left side of the chassis and
    then lift straight up.

    Place the
    old motherboard flat on a antistatic surface. Lacking that, put it on
    the tabletop. If you are salvaging the CPU or memory, ground yourself
    and remove those components. In any case, store the old motherboard
    in the antstatic bag that the new motherboard arrived in, once that
    bag is available.



3.3.2 Installing the New Motherboard



To
install the motherboard, take the following steps, observing
antistatic precautions throughout the process:

    Touch the PC power supply to ground yourself, and then open the
    antistatic bag that contains the new motherboard. Remove the new
    motherboard from its antistatic bag, place the bag on a flat surface,
    and place the motherboard on top of the antistatic bag.

    If you haven't done so already, read the motherboard
    manual to determine how to configure it. Verify each diagram in the
    manual against the actual motherboard to ensure that you can identify
    the important switches, jumpers, and connectors.

    Configure the motherboard according to the instructions in the
    manual. Recent motherboards may use only one or a few configuration
    jumpers. Older technology motherboards may use jumpers to set
    numerous options, including CPU speed, host bus speed, CPU voltage,
    etc. Make sure to set all of these jumpers correctly, especially
    those that control voltage, before you apply power to the board.

    After you have set all configuration jumpers properly, install the
    CPU and memory according to the instructions supplied with the
    motherboard and/or the components.

    Determine how the motherboard mounts to the chassis. Old motherboards
    often used several snap-in nylon stand-off spacers and only a few
    screws to secure the motherboard. Modern motherboards use all or
    mostly screws, which secure to brass stand-off spacers. The important
    issue is whether a given hole location in the motherboard is designed
    to be grounded. If it is, it will mount with a screw to a conductive
    brass stand-off spacer. If it isn't, it will mount
    using a nonconductive nylon stand-off spacer. Using a conductive
    brass connector where an insulating nylon connector was intended can
    short out and destroy the motherboard. Using a nylon connector where
    a brass connector was intended can cause the motherboard to operate
    improperly or not at all, or to radiate excessive RFI. New
    motherboards come with a plastic bag that contains screws and
    stand-off spacers of the proper type. If yours does not and you are
    not sure which type is required, refer to the motherboard
    documentation or contact technical support. If the connectors
    supplied with the motherboard do not include any insulating
    stand-offs, it's generally a safe assumption that
    all mounting holes are designed to be grounded to a brass stand-off
    connector.

    Hold the motherboard over the chassis in the position that you will
    mount it. Typically all or all but one of the holes in the
    motherboard align with a stand-off spacer installed in the chassis.
    The motherboard is secured to the chassis by passing a screw through
    each of the motherboard screw holes and into the matching stand-off
    spacer. The final hole, usually the one nearest the back left corner
    of the motherboard, may use a slide-in spacer rather than a screw,
    which makes it easier to line up the motherboard with the other
    stand-off spacers. Most cases have many more mounting holes than are
    needed to secure any particular motherboard. Visually align the holes
    actually present in the motherboard with the chassis to determine
    which subset of the chassis mounting holes will actually be used. If
    you are building a new system, thread brass stand-off spacers into
    the appropriate chassis mounting holes. If you are replacing a
    motherboard, spacers may already be mounted in most or all of the
    necessary locations. Add or relocate spacers as necessary to ensure
    that each hole in the motherboard has a matching spacer.
    Don't leave any motherboard mounting holes unused.
    It's not that the motherboard is likely to go
    anywhere if you don't use all the screws. Each of
    those mounting holes provides support for the motherboard at a key
    location. If you leave one or more of the mounting holes unsupported,
    the motherboard may crack later when you are pressing hard to seat an
    expansion card, CPU, or memory module.



    When installing a Slot 1 motherboard
    that uses an old-style retention mechanism that must be installed
    before the motherboard is mounted in the case, now is the time to
    install it. Most new-style retention mechanisms can be installed
    either before or after the motherboard is mounted, and many Slot 1
    motherboards come with a folding retention mechanism already
    installed, which requires only raising the arms to vertical and
    locking them in place.

    After
    you've installed all necessary stand-off spacers,
    slide the motherboard into position, aligning all holes with their
    matching spacers. Secure the motherboard using the screws provided
    with it, or the screws that secured the original motherboard.

    Reconnect the cables, including power
    supply cables, ATA cables, floppy drive cable, the cables that link
    the motherboard to front panel switches and LEDs, and the cables that
    link the motherboard I/O ports to the back panel connectors.


    The motherboard package should include cables for the hard drive and
    floppy drive. Always use these new cables rather than the old cables.
    Not only are the new cables likely to be more reliable, but also they
    are certain to be electrically and physically compatible with the
    interface connectors on the new motherboard.

    Reinstall only the expansion cards needed to test the system
    (usually just the video card), reconnect any cables that connect to
    them, and then reconnect the external cables that link the system
    unit to the monitor, keyboard, mouse, and so on.

    Verify that everything that needs to be
    connected is connected, that everything is connected to the right
    thing, and that you haven't left any tools where
    they might short something out.

    Time for the smoke test. Turn on the monitor and then turn on
    power to the system unit. The BIOS boot screen should appear on your
    monitor. If no video appears, or if you hear a beep sequence other
    than the normal single startup beep, you have something
    misconfigured. Turn off the power immediately (or just pull the power
    cord) and recheck all connections and settings
    you've made.

    Once you're satisfied that the system is
    working properly, shut it down, remove power from it, reinstall any
    additional expansion cards, and restart the system.

    When the system begins a normal boot
    sequence, press whatever key the BIOS boot screen prompts you to
    press to enter CMOS Setup. If you have jumpered the motherboard in
    configuration mode, special CMOS Setup options (e.g., setting CPU
    speed or voltages) may be available now that will no longer be
    available once you re-jumper the motherboard for normal operation.
    Configure and save the CMOS Setup options, and then turn off power to
    the system.

    If necessary,
    re-jumper the motherboard for normal operation and then restart the
    system. Verify proper system operation, particularly that the system
    recognizes the hard drive(s) you have installed. Once you are sure
    that the system is working as expected, shut it down, reinstall the
    case cover, restart the system, and begin installing your operating
    system and applications.




If you replace the motherboard on a
Windows system, don't try to use your current
Windows installation unless you replaced a failed motherboard with an
identical model. At best, if the new motherboard is similar to the
old model, your existing Windows installation will almost work. If
the new motherboard is significantly different, Windows may not boot.
Even if it does boot, it will be unreliable. The best practice is to
format the hard drive, install a fresh copy of Windows, load the
chipset drivers for the new motherboard, install drivers for video,
audio, and other hardware devices, reinstall all of your
applications, and then restore your data. If you run Linux, you can
avoid all this. Linux generally takes motherboard upgrades in stride.


3.3.3 Configuring CMOS


Each time a
system boots, the BIOS boot screen appears momentarily. While this
screen is being displayed, pressing a designated key runs the CMOS
Setup program, which resides in firmware. CMOS Setup is used to
configure CMOS and chipset settings ranging from those as obvious as
the Date and Time to those as obscure as memory timings and bus
settings.


Recent Intel motherboards replace the standard BIOS boot screen with
an Intel-logo splash screen. Display the standard BIOS boot screen on
such systems by pressing the Esc key while the logo is visible.

To invoke CMOS Setup, you normally press F1 (AMI), the Delete
key (Award), or F2 (Phoenix). Other BIOS manufacturers use different
keys, and some system and motherboard manufacturers modify a standard
BIOS to use another key. The key that invokes CMOS Setup nearly
always appears on the BIOS boot screen, but if your BIOS boot screen
doesn't show that key, try the Delete key, F1, F2,
F10, Ctrl-Alt-S, or refer to the documentation.

The
exact appearance of CMOS Setup and the available options depend on
the chipset, the BIOS make and version, and changes made to the BIOS
and CMOS Setup programs by manufacturers. For example, two
motherboards may use the same chipset, processor, and BIOS, but one
may give users complete freedom to configure chipset options, while
the other allows users access to only some of the settings and uses
hard-wired values for other settings.

All BIOSs default
to a reasonable set of CMOS settings, one that allows the system to
boot and function normally. Beyond that, it's up to
you to choose settings to configure the system as you want it and to
optimize its performance.

Some CMOS Setup options, the
so-called basic settings, are pretty obviousthings such as
time and date, hard drive parameters, power management, boot
sequence, and so on. Others, particularly those segregated as
advanced settings and chipset settings, are anything but obvious. The
brief help descriptions provided with them are usually not much help
unless you already understand the issue. The primary rule here is

if you don't understand what an option is
for, don't change it .

That's easy to say, but it ignores the fact
that accepting default settings for obscure options can result in a
PC that performs significantly below its potential. PC and
motherboard manufacturers differ in how
"aggressive" they are in choosing
default settings, particularly those for such things as memory timing
and wait states. Those that tend toward slower, more conservative
default settings say, with some justification, that they cannot
predict what components (particularly what speed and quality of
memory) a user will install. Choosing conservative settings allows
them to be sure that the motherboard will at least work, if not
optimally. Those who are more aggressive (often, PC vendors, who have
control of which memory and other components will be installed)
assume that users want the highest possible performance level and use
components that support those aggressive settings.

The
first place to look for detailed CMOS Setup instructions is in the
manual that came with the computer or motherboard. Some manufacturers
provide detailed explanations of general CMOS Setup and Chipset Setup
options, but many cover only basic CMOS Setup options and ignore
Chipset Setup completely. If that's the case with
your manual, you may be able to download detailed instructions from
the BIOS manufacturer's web site.


For a comprehensive
treatment of configuring and optimizing BIOS settings, order

The BIOS Companion , by Phil Croucher.
It's available in printed form, or as a PDF file at
one third the price (http://www.electrocution.com/computing/book_bios.asp).
Another useful reference is Wim's BIOS page
(http://www.wimsbios.com/).


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