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• IndexSecrets of the iPod and iTunes Fifth EditionBy
Christopher Breen Publisher: Peachpit PressPub Date: December 20, 2004ISBN: 0-321-30459-4Pages: 488
Problems and Solutions
Unlike a computer, which can fail in seemingly countless and creative ways, the iPod exhibits only a few behaviors when it's feeling poorly. Following are the most common problems and (when available) their solutions.
The Missing iPod
When you plug your iPod into your Mac or PC, it should make its presence known in short orderappearing in iTunes or some third-party software on your Windows PC (Anapod Explorer or, if you're using older Windows software, Musicmatch Jukebox). If you've configured your iPod to mount as a disk drive, it will instead materialize on the Mac's Desktop or within Windows' My Computer window.If your iPod formatted for Macintosh refuses to mount, restart your Mac while holding down the Shift key. This boots your Mac running Mac OS X into Safe Mode. iPods that do not mount otherwise have been known to do so on a Mac running in Safe Mode.If that doesn't do the trick (or if this trick isn't applicable because you're using your iPod with a Windows PC), first reset the first-, second-, or third-generation iPod by plugging it into a power outlet and holding down the Play and Menu buttons for 6 seconds. If you have a fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo or an iPod mini, press and hold Select and Menu for 6 seconds. When you see the Apple logo, hold down the Previous and Next buttons on the first three generations of the white iPod, or hold down Select and Play on the fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo or iPod mini. This forces the iPod into Disk Modea mode that may allow your iPod to mount.Obviously, neither technique is a good long-term solution, as you don't want to restart your Mac in Safe Mode every time you try to access your iPod or have to force your Mac or Windows iPod into Disk Mode whenever you plug it in. An iPod that won't mount is one that should be restored with the latest iPod Software Updater. On the Mac, boot into Safe Mode; restore the iPod with the Updater (it erases all data on the iPod, so be sure that your data and music are backed up); and restart your computer normally, without holding down the Shift key. With luck, the iPod will appear as expected.If an iPod formatted for Windows refuses to mount on your Windows PC, and you're using a FireWire card, make sure that the FireWire (IEEE 1394) card is certified by Windows Hardware Quality Labs (WHQL). The literature that came with the card should indicate whether it's compliant; if not, check the vendor's Web site for compatibility information.
The Confused iPod
Clues that your iPod is confused are the absence of playlists, artists, and songs that used to be there; a capacity that appears to be 5 GB on a 10 GB iPod; the failure of the iPod to boot beyond the Apple logo; or the appearance of a folder icon with an exclamation point. I'll look at each scenario in the following sections.
Absence of items
While I was attempting to use an original iPod formatted for the Macintosh with Windows, my PC crashed, and when I unplugged the iPod, its playlists were missing. I could still play music from the iPod through the Songs screen, but things were not right.In an attempt to restore a sense of sanity to my iPod, I tried these remedies:
1. Reset the iPod (again, plug the first three generations of iPod into a power source and then press and hold Play and Menu for 6 seconds; for the fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo and mini, press and hold Select and Menu).Resetting the iPod is similar to pushing the Reset switch on your computer. It forces the iPod to restart and (ideally) get its little house in order. In this case, the iPod remained confused.2. Restore the iPod (run the latest iPod Software Updater).If reset doesn't work or your iPod can't seem to find its operating system (it displays a folder icon with an exclamation point), there's nothing else for it than to restore the iPod to its original factory statemeaning that all the data on it is removed and the iPod's firmware is updated. To restore the iPod on the Macintosh, launch the most recent copy of iPod Software Updater. (As we go to press, this is iPod Updater 2004-10-20, which contains the latest updaters for each version of the iPod: iPod Software 1.4 Updater for first- and second-generation iPods, iPod Software 2.2 Updater for third-generation iPods, iPod mini 1.1 Updater for the iPod mini, iPod Software 3.0.1 Updater for the fourth-generation iPod, iPod Software 1.0 Updater for the iPod Photo). Then click the Restore button in the resulting window (Figure 10.1). Confirm that you want to restore by clicking Restore in the warning sheet (Mac OS X) or dialog box (Mac OS 9) that appears (Figure 10.2).
Figure 10.1. Click the Restore button in the iPod Software Updater window to begin the restore process.
Figure 10.2. Are you sure?
Figure 10.3. Navigate to the iPod Updater with Windows' Start menu.
[View full size image]
Note that the Windows version of the Updater doesn't ask you to confirm your decision to restore the iPod. Be sure that you really want to restore the iPod before clicking the Restore button.If you're using a version of the iPod Software Updater before version 1.3 for the Mac (for the first- and second-generation iPods) or 2.0 for both Windows and Mac (for the third-generation iPod), you must unplug and replug the iPod for the restore process to complete. After you replug the iPod, it will appear to restart several times. When the process is complete, the Updater window will return to its initial state, offering you the option to restore your iPod.If you're working with iPod Software 1.3 or 2.0.x Updater, a first-, second-, or third-generation iPod should restart and complete the restore without your having to unplug it. But a fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, or an iPod mini, when connected to a PC with a USB 2.0 connection, will ask you to unplug it and then plug it into a power adapter before it can be fully restored.
In past editions of this book, I said that if the iPod doesn't want to restart after a couple of minutes, you should feel free to unplug it. Recently, though, I tried this very thing on an original iPod formatted for the Macintosh and met with disastrous results. The iPod didn't seem to be doing anything, so I disconnected itfully expecting that it would finish updating the firmware, as it had in the past. Wrong. The iPod locked up and refused to boot. Even after I used every technique I outline in this chapter, the iPod remained uncooperative. I wound up taking it into an Apple Store, where the Genius confirmed that it was deader than a dodo.Given my experience, I urge you to allow the iPod plenty of time to update itselfan hour or more, if need be (though it normally updates in about a minute). If, after a very long time, the iPod doesn't appear to respond, you can try unplugging it with the understanding that if it breaks, you'll blame no one but yourself.When you double-click your iPod's icon on the Mac's Desktop or in Windows' My Computer window after the restore, you'll see that the device contains only the Calendars, Contacts, and (on third- and fourth-generation iPods, iPod Photos, and the iPod mini) Notes folders, with the sample contacts and Notes instructions supplied by Apple.To put your songs back on the iPod, just launch iTunes or the iPod software you use with your Windows PC and sync the iPod.Those Windows users who've elected to use Musicmatch Jukebox will find that after they restore their iPods, Musicmatch launches and presents the Device Setup dialog box (Figure 10.4). You've undoubtedly seen this dialog box in the past, but as a reminder, this is where you can name your iPod, choose whether it will update all playlists or selected playlists when the iPod is synchronized with Musicmatch Jukebox, choose to synchronize the iPod and Musicmatch Jukebox when the iPod is plugged into the PC, and enable the iPod for disk use. Mediafour's XPlay presents its own setup dialog box when it encounters a newly restored iPod.Figure 10.4. The Device Setup dialog box.
Mixing Generations
The iPod is a popular-enough item that many people have more than one. Given that the current iPod can't be successfully updated or restored with versions of the iPod Software Updater earlier than version 2.0, and given that first- and second-generation iPods and the iPod mini can't be properly updated or restored with the iPod Software 2.0.x Updater and later, is it possible for old and new iPods to coexist on the same computer?Yes.If you have a first- or second-generation iPod, a third-generation white iPod, a fourth- generation iPod, an iPod Photo, and an iPod mini, you must update and restore the five of them with different versions of the iPod Software Updater.Apple recently placed all five updaters within a single package (called iPod Updater 2004-10-20 as we go to press, but there's likely to be a newer version by the time you read this). This single package contains all five of the iPod Updaters. To restore your iPod, just launch this utility. The utility should pick the correct iPod model. If it doesn't, you'll see a screen that asks you to pick your iPod model. Select the appropriate model, and restore your iPod. Should you attempt to restore your iPod with the wrong updater, you'll see a message that says the updater is incompatible with your iPod.If you're a Windows user with a third-generation iPod and iPod Software 2.0.x Updater, you should upgrade to iPod Software 2.1 Updater or later. I suggest this not just so you'll get the added features that accompany the 2.1 release, but also because the 2.0.x updater makes it difficult to install updaters for new and old iPods on the same PC.The problem stems from the fact that when you install the iPod Software 2.0.x Updater on your PC, it erases previous versions of the iPod software.Because it does, if you want to use an older and a newer iPod on your Windows PC, you must install the iPod Software 2.0x Updater (and resign yourself to erasing the older updater). Then download and install the latest updater for your first- or second-generation iPod (version 1.4 as this book goes to press).
Incorrect capacity
Speaking of incorrect software updaters, a problem with capacity can occur when you've restored a Macintosh iPod with a software updater that's not intended for that device. The original 10 GB iPod, for example, should be restored only with iPod Software 1.1 Updater or later. If you restore with the version 1.0.4 updater, for example, your 10 GB iPod will be confused and display a capacity akin to that of a 5 GB iPod (though it will still hold as much data as a 10 GB iPod). Apple no longer offers this updater online, so if the original 10 GB iPod is your first iPod, you're highly unlikely to have this problem.
You'll also get an incorrect capacity reading if you use the iPod Software 1.3 Updater and place a 15 GB hard drive from a new iPod into a first- or second-generation iPod. In this case, however, the iPod's confusion appears to work in your favor. When you restore the iPod with the iPod Software 1.3 Updater, your iPod will appear to hold as much data as a 20 GB iPodiTunes, the Mac's Finder, and the iPod itself tell you that it can hold over 18 GB of data. It can't, of course, but it's a pleasing illusion. Current iPod Software Updaters are smart enough to recognize the true capacity of the drive.Failure to boot
There are a few possible reasons why an iPod might not boot beyond the Apple logosome benign and others not so.The Hold switch is on.
Go ahead and smack yourself in the head (and then breathe a sigh of relief) if your iPod won't start up because the Hold switch is engaged.Drained battery.
Among the most benign problems is an iPod battery that's drained (though not dead; I'll discuss dead iPod batteries later in this chapter). If the iPod is functioning normally otherwise, when you attempt to switch on an iPod with a very nearly drained battery, you see a low-battery icon. If the battery is completely drained, the iPod is incapable of mustering the energy even to display this icon; the screen remains black, and the drive refuses to spin up. Plug your iPod into the power adapter or your computer, and let it charge. If everything's hunky-dory after that, pat yourself on the back for a job well done.If you find that your iPod's battery can't seem to hold a charge for more than a daysay, you switch it off with a full charge on Monday, but its battery is drained when you try to use it on Wednesdaysee whether a more recent version of the iPod Software Updater is available. iPod Software 1.2.4 Updater, for example, was notorious for causing iPods to lose their charge quickly, but the iPod Software 1.2.6 update fixed that problem.If you've plugged the iPod's data/power cable into a computer that isn't currently charging it, unplug it. Some people have reported that when the iPod isn't being chargedit's attached to a sleeping computer, for examplethe charge can dissipate quickly.In some rare cases, the battery may not be drained enough for the iPod to be reset. If you've tried other solutions and failed, unplug the iPod from a power supply for 24 hours; then plug it into a power source and attempt to reset it by holding down the Play and Menu buttons for 6 seconds on the first three generations of the iPod, or by pressing Select and Menu for those same 6 seconds on a fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, or iPod mini.Confused iPod.
If the iPod still refuses to boot, attempt to reset it by pressing and holding the Play and Menu buttons for 10 seconds.Incorrect formatting.
At some point, you might have thought it would be a nifty idea to reformat your iPod's hard drivepartitioned it on a Macintosh to install Mac OS 9 on one partition and Mac OS X on the other, for example. Or you used a Windows utility other than the iPod Software Updater to format the drive. Bad idea. You should format the iPod only with the iPod Software Updaterand, as I mention at some length in the "Chapter 6), or vice versa. Just be sure that if you're subjecting your iPod to a platform change, you use the appropriate iPod Software Updater to do the job.
Songs skip
Songs played on the iPod may skip for several reasons, which include:Large song file.
Large song files ("Mountain Jam" from the Allman Brothers' classic Eat a Peach, for example) don't play particularly well with the iPod's 32 MB RAM buffer. Such large files race through the RAM buffer, requiring the iPod to access the hard drive more often. This situation can lead to skipping if the iPod is pulling the song almost directly from the hard drive. If possible, reduce the size of files by employing greater compression, or chop really long files (such as audio books) into pieces.Damaged file.
A damaged song file may skip. If you find that the same song skips every time you play itand other songs seem to play back with no problemgo back to the source of the song (an audio CD, for example), rip the song again, and replace the copy on the iPod with the newly ripped version.iPod that needs to be reset.
Yes, an iPod that needs to be reset may cause songs to skip. (Refer to "The confused iPod" earlier in this chapter for instruction.)iPod that needs to be restored.
If a reset won't do the trick, make sure that all the data on your iPod is backed up, and restore the iPod with the latest appropriate version of iPod Software Updater. (Instructions are also in "The confused iPod" earlier in this chapter.)
Unpleasant sound as the hard drive spins up
This symptom appeared in some early releases of the fourth-generation iPod and a very few iPod Photos. Typically, iPods with this problem will make noise through the headphone port whenever the iPod's hard drive spins up. Static accompanies the first couple of seconds of songs played after the iPod spins up.This appears to be a grounding issue that makes itself known only when you've plugged in headphones whose audio connector bears a metal base that comes in contact with the iPod's case. This metal-to-metal contact transmits this sound through your headphones. To troubleshoot the issue, place a small plastic washer on the post of any affected headphones.Note that not all iPods exhibit this problem. Apple has been known to replace iPods that are thus afflicted. If you have a real problem with it, try taking it into Apple for an exchange. When you do so, find a display model iPod that matches yours and plug your headphones into it. If the display iPod doesn't have the problem, you can make a reasonably strong case that your iPod is out of the normthe Store's iPod doesn't buzz, why should yours?
Remote control doesn't work
On first- and second-generation iPods, the connection between the iPod and the remote control needs to be very snug. If your remote control isn't working, give the plug a good, hard push (and a twist) into the Sound Output port.
Don't twist the plug on the newest remote controls. These remotes plug into both the Sound Output port and a special Remote Control port on third- and fourth-generation iPods, iPod Photos, and iPod minis. If you twist the plug, you'll likely break the remote control (and may damage the iPod as well).The Really Confused iPod
Your iPod may be so confused that it won't mount on your Mac's Desktop or in Windows' My Computer window and can't be restored. Follow these steps to mount the iPod:
1. Connect a first-, second-, or third-generation iPod to a built-in FireWire port on your computer (rather than an unpowered FireWire port on a PC Card or a USB 2.0 port, for example). Because the fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini can be powered via a USB 2.0 connection, feel free to use such a connection with your Mac or Windows PC.2. Reset the first-, second-, or third-generation iPod by pressing the Play and Menu buttons for 6 seconds. Reset the fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini by holding down Select and Menu for 6 seconds.3. When you see the Apple logo, press and hold the Previous and Next buttons on the first three generations of the iPod until you see a message that reads "Do not disconnect." On the fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, or iPod mini, press Select and Play.
The click-wheel iPods (fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini) can be very finicky about these multibutton presses; half the time they don't work. Keep trying. You'll get the timing right eventually.The key combination outlined in step 2 resets the iPod much like pressing the Reset switch on a PC or Mac resets the computer. The second key combination forces the iPod into Disk Modea mode that will help your computer recognize and mount the iPod.With luck, your iPod should appear on the Mac's Desktop or in Windows' My Computer window. Then you should be able to restore it with the iPod Software Updater.If you're using a version of the iPod Software Updater before version 1.2 (and this version would be for Macs only, because 1.2 was the first version to ship with the Windows models), don't be alarmed if you see a FireWire symbol instead of the "Do not disconnect" message in the iPod's display. The operation (and effect) are the same; only the display is different.Kelly's Sidebar: "Do not disconnect"
Shortly after Apple released the second generation of iPods, my friend Kelly contacted me in what can be politely described as a state of concern. Our conversation went something like this:She: "I can't disconnect my iPod from my computer! I thought this was supposed to be a portable music player!"Me: "What do you mean, you can't disconnect it? Is the cable stuck?"She: "I don't think so."Me: "You don't think so? Have you tried?"She: "No. I'm afraid to!"Me: "Why?"She: "Because my iPod is flashing this warning sign and says, 'Do not disconnect.' I'm afraid I'll break something if I pull the cable out!"Me: "Ohhh…."And that, dear reader, is why this is Kelly's sidebar.There's a shortish explanation for why you see this message (or its more-positive partner, the "OK to disconnect" message): Versions of the iPod that bore software before version 1.2 didn't make it particularly clear when it was and wasn't a good idea to break the FireWire connection between the iPod and computer. More often than not, you'd pull the FireWire cable from the iPod's FireWire port, only to be greeted by a message on your computer screen indicating that you'd severed a vital FireWire connection and that you'd be well advised to shove the cable back in at your earliest convenience. (There might have been an "And I mean right now, buster!" in there somewhere, too.)To address this issue, Apple created a warning that makes it abundantly clear that you should not feel at liberty to unplug your iPod whenever the mood strikes. Instead, you should take care to unmount your iPod before unplugging it.In iTunes, you can do this by selecting the iPod's icon in the Source list and then clicking the Eject iPod button in the bottom-right corner of the iTunes window. Or, on the Mac's Desktop, you can drag the iPod's icon to the Trash.In Windows, you can click the Safely Remove Hardware icon in the System Tray and select your iPod from the resulting contextual menu. Or, if you're using Musicmatch Jukebox, you can click the iPod in the Device window, select the iPod in the Source list, and click the Eject button in the bottom-left corner of the Device window (or right-click the iPod in the Device window and choose Eject Device from the contextual menu).After you've unmounted the iPod, the "Do not disconnect" message will change to "OK to disconnect," signaling that you're welcome to unplug the data/power cable whenever you like.But the unspoken question remains: Will your iPod explode (or quietly whimper and die) if you unplug the data/power cable when the "Do not disconnect" message is displayed?Probably not. You shouldn't break the connection when the computer is transferring data to the iPod; that could corrupt the hard drive, requiring you to restore the device. If the iPod is just sitting around, merrily charging its battery, it's not likely to suffer terribly if you unplug it. But why take the chance? After all the pleasure your iPod has given you, treat it with respect, and honor its one simple request.
The Ultra-really Confused iPod
If your iPod won't start up no matter what you've tried, you might be able to make it work again by disassembling the unit (see "It's what's inside that counts: disassembling the first-generation iPod" later in this chapter), unplugging the battery and hard drive, plugging the battery and hard drive in again, and reassembling the iPod.
If your iPod is still under warranty, take advantage of that warranty and have your iPod looked at rather than pulling it apart yourself. As you'll learn later in this chapter, disassembling late-model iPods can be devilishly difficult, and you could destroy your iPod in the process. Also, if Apple learns that you've opened an iPod, there's a distinct possibility that the company won't honor your warranty.Secret Button Combinations
By pressing the proper combination of buttons on the iPod's face, you can force the device to reset, enter Disk Mode, scan its hard disk for damage, and perform a series of diagnostic tests. Here are those combinations and the wonders they perform:Reset.First three generations of the white iPod:
Plug the iPod into a powered FireWire device (the Apple iPod Power Adapter, an auto adapter, or a built-in FireWire port), and press and hold Play and Menu for 6 seconds.Fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini:
Plug the mini into a powered device (the Apple iPod Power Adapter, an auto adapter, or a built-in FireWire port) or a high-powered USB 2.0 port; then press and hold Select and Menu for 6 seconds.When you reset your iPod, your data remains intact, but the iPod restores the factory settings. This technique reboots the iPod and is helpful when your iPod is locked up.Disk mode.First three generations of the white iPod:
Reset the iPod. At the Apple logo, press and hold the Previous and Next buttons.Fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini:
Reset the iPod. At the Apple logo, press and hold the Select and Play buttons.Use this technique when you need to mount your iPod on a Mac with an unpowered FireWire card (a FireWire PC Card in your older PowerBook, for example) or on a PC with a similarly unpowered FireWire or USB 2.0 connection.Disk scan.First three generations of the white iPod:
Reset the iPod. At the Apple logo, press and hold Previous, Next, Select, and Menu. An animated icon of a disk and magnifying glass with a progress bar below it appears.Fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini:
Click-wheel iPods don't offer a button combination to scan the hard drive. Rather, you must access this function through the iPod's Diagnostic screen (which I explain at great length later in this chapter).Use this combination when you want to check the integrity of the iPod's hard drive. This test can take 15 to 20 minutes, so be patient. Be sure to plug your iPod into the power adapter when you perform this test so that the iPod doesn't run out of juice before the scan is complete. If the scan shows no problems, a check mark appears over the disk icon. To return your iPod to regular use, press Play.Diagnostic mode.First three generations of the white iPod:
Reset the iPod. At the Apple logo, press and hold Previous, Next, and Select.Fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini:
Reset the iPod. At the Apple logo, press and hold Select and Previous.Diagnostic mode includes 16 tests for the first three generations of the white iPod, 19 tests for the iPod mini, 21 tests for the fourth-generation iPod, and a mess o' tests for the iPod Photo that may help you determine what's wrong. See the "Doing Diagnostics" sidebar later in this chapter for more details.
The Far-too-quiet European iPod
My American readers may be unaware of the fact that The Powers That Be across the Atlantic are concerned about hearing loss. I'm quite serious. Some European countries are so concerned about the dangerous mix of excessive volume and unprotected eardrums that they've barred personal listening devices such as the iPod from blasting sound beyond 100 decibels (dB). To accommodate the desiresand lawsof these countries, Apple placed a volume cap of 100 dB on the iPods it sells in Europe. (The American iPod can play up to a theoretical limit of 104 dB, which is 2.5 times louder than 100 dB.)Some European iPod owners are disappointed that they can't put their hearing at risk, as their American counterparts can. If you count yourself among that number, relief is at hand in the form of a couple of free utilities that adjust the iPod's database file to allow audio to play at a higher volumes.Macintosh users can accelerate the onset of tinnitus with Hans- Peter Dusel's iPod VolumeBooster utility, which you can find at [http://volumebooster.tangerine-soft.de]. Windows users who'd like to experience similar ear-ringing goodness should download iMod from [www.pochoirs.de/software_es] or give Espen Ringom's euPOD VolumeBoost ([www.espen.se]) a try.
The Broken iPod
It's a machine, and regrettably, machines break. If none of these solutions brings your iPod back from the dead, it may need to be repaired. Contact Apple at [http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod/64] for instructions on how to have your iPod serviced.
My One Bad iPod
I've mucked with a fair number of iPods, and every one of them performed like a champsave one. That one was a new, third-generation 15 GB iPod that was funky from the get-go (and I don't mean the funky-in-a-good-way-like-James-Brown sense). It routinely locked up when I attempted to download my iTunes library, and until I toggled its Hold switch a few times, the controls refused to work. Repeated attempts to restore it did no good.Interestingly enough, after whirring away for no more than 15 minutes, the iPod performed a very convincing imitation of an overly efficient hand-warmer: It ran excessively hot. This heat affected the iPod's display, turning it so dark that I could read it only by turning the contrast setting all the way down.Owning such an iPod is unlikely to brighten your dayunless you're writing a book about the iPod. To me, this funky iPod was exactly the opportunity I needed to test-drive Apple's support for the device.I repacked the iPod, dug out the receipt, and trundled over to the Apple Store in Palo Alto, California, where I presented the device to Ian, the Genius behind the Store's Genius Bar. He politely asked me what was bothering my little digital buddy, listened patiently while I described its symptoms, ran a couple of tests, and concluded that the iPod was indeed ill. Although I purchased the iPod from Apple's online store, he explained that he could authorize an exchange for a new iPod from the Store's stock.This he did, and I was on my way out the door with a brand-new iPod in a matter of minutes. That iPod hasn't given me a lick of trouble.
The Frozen iPod
Just like a computer, the iPod can freeze from time to time. To thaw it, attach your iPod to a power sourcethe power adapter, a powered FireWire port, or a Mac or PC's high-powered USB 2.0 portand, on the first three generations of the iPod, press and hold the Play and Menu buttons for 6 seconds. For the fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini, press and hold Select and Menu for these same 6 seconds.
Failure to charge
There are several reasons why an iPod might not charge. They include all of the following.A sleeping computer.
The iPod won't charge when it's attached to a sleeping computer. Wake up your computer if you want the iPod to charge.The wrong cable.
Remember, a USB 2.0 connection carries no power to a third-generation iPod (though it does to a fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini). To charge your first-, second-, or third-generation iPod on a Windows PC, you must plug your iPod into a powered FireWire port or the iPod's power adapter.More than one FireWire device on the chain.
Although you can chain multiple FireWire devices together, doing so with an iPod isn't such a good idea. To begin with, a FireWire device on the chain before the iPod (a hard drive, for example) may be hogging all the power. Second, there have been reports of iPods that got corrupted when they were left on a chain with other FireWire devices. To be safe rather than sorry, don't put the iPod on a chain. If you must use multiple FireWire devices, purchase a powered FireWire hub (which costs between $45 and $65).A frozen iPod.
An iPod that's frozen won't charge. While a first-, second-, or third-generation iPod is attached to a power supply, press and hold the Play and Menu buttons for 6 seconds. For the fourth-generation iPod, iPod Photo, and iPod mini, press and hold Select and Menu for the same length of time.A faulty cable.
Cables break. Try a different data/power cable, just in case yours has gone the way of the dodo.A faulty computer port.
It's possible that the FireWire or USB 2.0 port on your computer has given up the ghost. Try charging the iPod from the Apple iPod Power Adapter.A funky power adapter.
The Apple iPod Power Adapter could also be bad. Attempt to charge your iPod from your computer.A faulty data/power port on the iPod.
This problem is more common on first- and second-generation iPods than it is on current iPods. As you plug and unplug the FireWire cable from the iPod's FireWire port, it's possible to put too much stress on the internal connectors that deliver power to your iPod's FireWire port, breaking the bond between those connectors and your iPod's motherboard.If your iPod is out of warranty, and you're handy with a soldering iron, you could open your iPod (see "It's What's Inside That Counts: Disassembling the First-generation iPod" later in this chapter), check for broken connections, and resolder those connections. This kind of repair is one that only the truly skilled should attempt, however.A dead battery.
Like all lithium-ion batteries, the iPod's battery is good for 300 to 500 full charges. When you've exhausted those charges, your iPod needs a new battery. See the sidebar "Assault on Batteries" for more details.Broken iPod.
I've mentioned this before: iPods occasionally break. In this case, the battery may be dead. If none of these solutions brings your iPod back from its never-ending slumber, it may need to be replaced. Contact Apple at [http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod/64].
There's no harm in keeping the iPod plugged into a power source after it's charged. It won't stress the battery in any way.Assault on Batteries
There's been a great deal of hoopla surrounding the iPod's batteryspecifically, how long it should last and why it's so darned difficult (and expensive) to replace. Let's set the record straight.All iPods carry a lithium-ion (Li-ion) battery. Theoretically, lithium-ion batteries, by their very nature, can be fully charged up to 500 times. In actual practice, your iPod's battery will put up with between 300 and 450 complete charges before it gives up the ghost.This is all well and good if you charge your iPod once a week or so. However, if you use your iPod constantlyand, thus, fully charge it four or five times a weekyou'll discover that after about a year and a half, it's kaput.As you might imagine, those who've seen their iPods kick the bucket after a year and a half have been less than joyous about it. After all, a device you paid several hundred dollars for should have a longer shelf life than a Twinkie. Adding to this unhappiness was Apple's policy of charging $255 to replace the iPod.Apple and some third-party battery vendors got hip to the situation as the first couple of revisions of the iPod began to go south due to dead batteries. In late 2003, Apple instituted a battery-replacement service, which works like this: If your iPod is more than a year old, and it fails to hold a charge, Apple will replace it with another "functionally equivalent new, used, or refurbished iPod" for $99 (plus shipping and sales tax). That "functionally equivalent" stuff means that you won't get back the same iPod that you send in. If you send in an engraved iPod, Apple will take the back plate off your iPod and put it on the replacement iPod. For more details, visit [http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod].iPodResQ ([www.ipodresq.com]) offers a similar service for $79. You contact the company, it ships you a postage-paid box for your iPod, you ship it to iPodResQ HQ, and your iPod is returned in a few days with a brand-new battery. PDASmart ([www.pdasmart.com]) will do the job for $68, and Small Dog Electronics ([www.smalldog.com]) will tackle battery replacement on third-generation iPods for $50.If you're a do-it-yourselfer (and you may want to become one after you read my instructions later in this chapter for replacing your iPod's battery), you can procure a battery and service the iPod on your own. iPodResQ, Newer Technology ([http://eshop.macsales.com/Catalog_Item.cfm?ID=7157&Item=NWTIPOD210012]), PDASmart, Small Dog Electronics, Laptops for Less ([www.ipodbattery.com]), and Unity Electronics ([www.unityelectronics.com]) offer battery-replacement kits. Along with the battery, these companies include tools for opening the iPod and instructions for doing so.If you have a first- or second-generation iPod and would like greater playtime from your iPod, I urge you to check out Newer Technology's high-capacity iPod Replacement battery ([http://eshop.macsales.com/Catalog_Item.cfm?ID=7157&Item=NWTIPOD210012]). I flung one of these $40 suckers into my first-generation 5 GB iPod, which then played continuously for 21 hours and 25 minutes. Yow!
Disk-scan icons at startup
There may come a time when you start up your iPod, and a disk-scan icon appears. This situation occurs when the iPod senses a problem with the hard drive. When the disk scan is complete (a 15- to 20-minute process), you'll see one of four icons. These icons indicate the following conditions:
The disk scan failed and will be repeated when you next restart or reset your iPod.
Everything's cool. Your iPod's hard drive passed with flying colors.
The scan found some problems but was able to fix them. If you see this icon, you should restore your iPod.
This is bad. The Sad iPod icon indicates that the iPod can't retrieve data from the hard drive. If you see this icon, it's time to send your iPod to the shop.
There's actually one more disk-scan icon, which indicates that youcanceled the disk scan by holding down the Select button for3seconds.The next time you switch on your iPod, the disk scan will be repeated.Doing Diagnostics
Ever wonder what Apple technicians do when they want to test an iPod? Just as you can, they reset the iPod, and when they see the Apple logo, they press Previous, Next, and Select on the first three generations of white iPods, and Select and Previous on an iPod mini or fourth-generation iPod.When you do this, you'll hear a chirp. Release the buttons. You'll see (very briefly) a reversed Apple logo and a splash screen that displays the version of the diagnostic test; then, finally, you'll see a list of tests.First-, second-, and third-generation iPodsOn the first three white iPods, you'll find these tests:5IN1 .
This test causes the iPod to run a series of these tests. On first- and second-generation iPods using iPod Software 1.3 Updater, the iPod runs LCM, RTC, SDRAM, FIREWIRE, and FLASH.On a third-generation iPod, wait for the tests to complete; then press Select to hear a long beep, Rewind to hear the iPod's scroll-wheel clicking sound, Menu to hear a long beep pitched lower than the Select beep, and Fast Forward to hear a chirp reminiscent of Atari video games.RESET.
This test resets the iPod.KEY.
When you activate this test, you have 5 seconds to press all the buttons on the iPod. As you do so, the name of each button appears on the display. Press all the buttons in that 5-second time limit, and the words KEY PASS appear.AUDIO.
This test checks the iPod's audio subsystem. If everything's OK on a first- or second-generation iPod, you'll see 0X00000001 DONE in the display. The third-generation iPod doesn't display anythingand it doesn't need to. Plug in a set of headphones, and you'll hear a repeated drumbeat when you activate this test. (You'll hear this drumbeat on all iPods, but interestingly enough, it's faster on third-generation iPods.)REMOTE.
This screen is for testing the remote control. As you press each button on the Apple remote control plugged into your iPod, a white bar appears. When you push all buttons successfully, you see the message RMT PASS. If no remote control is plugged into the iPod, you'll see a single white bar across the top of the display, and the only way to regain control of your iPod is to reset the device by pressing Menu and Play for 10 seconds.FW ID.
This test checks the iPod's FireWire port. If everything's OK, you'll see FW PASS in the display. (This test is labeled FIREWIRE on first- and second-generation iPods.) If you press Select on a third-generation iPod, you'll see the words DISK MODE; then the iPod reboots in Disk Mode.SLEEP.
This test puts the iPod to sleep. When you attempt to wake it, you'll see a low-battery icon. To regain control of an iPod running a version of the updater earlier than 2.0.x, you must reset the iPod. To reboot an iPod running iPod Software 2.0.x Updater, press the Menu button and then the Play/Pause button.A2D.
This test checks the iPod's power system. When my 20 GB iPod running iPod Software 1.3 Updater passed this test, the display read CHG OK FW 1 BAT 1. A third-generation iPod that passed the test read ADC TEST ID 004A, BAT 001AE ACC 003FF ACC2 000FF. I assume that these results are good.OTPO CNT.
When you turn the scroll wheel, its value is displayed in hexadecimal code.LCM.
This display test scrolls through a different pattern when you press Select (two patterns total; the second pattern is displayed with backlighting turned on).CHG STUS (third-generation iPods only).
This test appears to report how the iPod is being charged. When the iPod is operating on battery power, the test screen reads STATUSTEST USB 0 FW 1 HP 0 BAT CHR 1 CHGR 00000. If the iPod is plugged into the Dock, the FW value changes to 0, and the CHGR value changes to a different hexadecimal value. Although this test doesn't appear among the list of tests on the third-generation iPod, it is run as part of the 5 IN 1 test on these newer iPods.USB DISK (third-generation iPods only).
The display reads USB DISK when you activate this test. Press the Fast Forward button, and the words FW DISK appear. A few seconds later, the iPod reboots in Disk Mode.RTC (first- and second-generation iPods only).
This test displays a different hexadecimal code each time you press Select. [iPoding.com] ([www.ipoding.com]) suggests that the test measures the iPod's real-time clock.SDRAM (first- and second-generation iPods only).
This test checks the iPod's onboard RAM. If the iPod passes, you'll see SDRAM PASS in the display. Although this test doesn't appear among the list of tests on the third-generation iPod, it is run as part of the 5 IN 1 test on these newer iPods.FLASH (first- and second-generation iPods only).
[iPoding.com] believes that the hexadecimal number that results from this test represents the iPod's ROM version.CHK SUM (third-generation iPods only).
This test appears to be the same as FLASH.CONTRAST (third-generation iPods only).
Spin the scroll wheel during this test to increase or decrease the iPod's contrast. The iPod's current contrast settings are not affected by this test.If you discover that you can't see the screen when you invoke Diagnostic Mode (as I couldn't on one of my 15 GB iPods), you can make it visible with the Contrast test. Regrettably, because you can't see the screen, you'll have to do it blind. To do so, enter Diagnostic Mode, press the Back button three times, press Select, and start spinning the scroll wheel until the contrast is adjusted to the point where you can read the screen.WHEELA2D (first- and second-generation iPods only).
This test seems to check for scroll-wheel movement. In versions of the iPod software before 1.2, this test is labeled OTPO.HDD SCAN.
This test initiates the disk-scan test (which can take 15 to 20 minutes).RUN IN.
This test runs a series of internal diagnostic tests until you press and hold the Play button to return to the diagnostic screen.The missing tests.
The iPod Software 2.0 Updaterthe software that shipped with the very first third-generation iPodsincluded two tests that are no longer listed in the Diagnostic screen: RECORD and LIN REC. These tests demonstrated that the audio chip in the third-generation iPods was capable of both playing and recording audio. When you install the iPod Software 2.0.1 (or later) Updater, these tests disappear from the Diagnostic screen.Fourth-generation iPod and iPod miniThe fourth-generation iPod and iPod mini's tests are a bit different from those on the original iPods. They include:Initial test (fourth-generation iPod only).
When you first throw the fourth-generation iPod into Diagnostic Mode, it displays the diagnostic version (version AC0728A is displayed on both my 20 and 40 GB fourth-generation iPods) and performs a quick test of the internal RAM. To move to the main diagnostic screen, press Play. The iPod briefly displays one of the video test screens, and its internal alarm beeps once.5IN1 .
This test performs a series of exams, including checking the backlight, memory, internal clock, and USB ports.RESET.
This test resets the iPod and is one way to exit the Diagnostic screen.KEY.
Press the keys; this test tells you whether they work.CHGRCUR (called CHGR CURR on the fourth-generation iPod).
This test seems to allow you to turn charging methods on and off.REMOTE.
This test allows you to test the buttons on the remote control.HP STAT (called HP STATUS on the fourth-generation iPod).
This test indicates whether something is plugged into the headphone jack and shows the state of the Hold switch.SLEEP.
This test puts the iPod to sleep.BATT A2D.
This test checks the mini's power supply and may indicates the amount of charge in the battery.A2D STAT.
This test relates to the battery and power supply.FIREWIRE.
This test checks the FireWire chip.HARD R/W.
This test checks the read and write functions of the hard drive and displays HDD PASS if all goes well.SMRT DAT.
Another hard drive test, this one reads RETRACTS 4 REALLOCS 0 PENDING 0.SMRT SCAN (iPod mini only).
This test appears to be akin to a first-, second-, or third generation iPod's Disk Scan test. The test takes several minutes, so don't perform it unless the mini is plugged into a power source.HDD SCAN (fourth-generation iPod only).
This test appears to be akin to a first-, second-, or third generation iPod's Disk Scan test. The test takes several minutes, so don't perform it unless the iPod is plugged into a power source.READ SN (fourth-generation iPod only).
This test displays the iPod's serial and model numbers.DRV TEMP.
This test displays the drive temperature and is the next-to-last test on the fourth-generation iPod.DISKMODE.
This test throws the iPod into Disk Mode.WHEEL.
Run your thumb around the wheel, and watch the values change.CONTRAST.
This test initiates the contrast test. My mini's Diagnostic screen was really light; running this test made the screen much darker and more legible. Proceed through the screens by pressing the Play button.AUDIO.
This test displays audio gain. You can move up as high as 127 by pressing the Forward button. The default is 120.STATUS.
This test tells you what's plugged into your iPodwhether it's being charged via FireWire and has something plugged into the headphone jack, for example.IRAM TEST (fourth-generation iPod only).
This appears to test the internal RAM more extensively than the test performed when you first enter Diagnostic Mode.To advance from one test to the next, press the Next button. To move back through the tests, press the Previous button. To activate a test, press the Select button. To return to the Diagnostic screen at the end of a test, press the Play button.To exit Diagnostic Mode, you must reset your iPod by pressing and holding the Play and Menu buttons for approximately 10 seconds or by running the RESET test.iPod PhotoWith the iPod Photo, Apple completely reorganized Diagnostic Mode to include commands and submenus to some of those commands. You access Diagnostic Mode, just as you would with a fourth-generation iPod or iPod mini, reset the iPod, and then hold Select and Back when you see the Apple logo. Here's how the iPod Photo does diagnostics:The main screen reads iPod Diagnostics and displays SRV followed by a date below (I assume this is the date of the firmware). Below is a list of these test suites:MemoryIOPowerStatusSysCfgDiskmodeReset
You can use the scroll wheel or Forward and Back buttons to move from one suite to another. To invoke a suite or test, press Select. The suites contain these tests:MemorySDRAM.
Clicking SDRAM takes you to a screen that lists a single SDRAMFullTest. Click Select in this screen and the iPod tests the internal memory chip. The screen displays SDRAM OK if the SDRAM is indeed, okay.Flash.
The iPod displays Checksum=0xE937 on my iPod when I run this test. This test checks the device's flash memory.IRAM.
Another, more extensive, memory test. When complete the iPod resets.IOComms.
Three tests appear when you click CommsUSBTest, FirewireTest, and Remote. Their names describe them aptly. In order to run the first two tests successfully, you must make the appropriate connectionthe iPod's data cable must be connected to a USB port or FireWire port for the first two tests and the iPod's Remote Control must be attached for the Remote test.Wheel.
When you click Wheel, two tests appearKeyTest and WheelTest. KeyTest asks you to engage the click wheel's five buttons. To pass the WheelTest, just scroll your thumb around the wheel.LCD.
Two tests here: Backlight and Color. Engaging Backlight allows you to run through the iPod's varying degrees of brightness. The setting you leave the test with does not affect the iPod's brightness after you reset it. The Color test requires that you press Select to see each of these colors/patterns: blue, red, green, black, white, red to black gradient, green to black gradient, blue to black gradient, gray to black gradient, checkerboard pattern, black, and gray to black gradient again.Headphone.
detect Indicates whether something is plugged into the headphone port and whether the Hold switch is on or off.HardDrive.
This screen includes four testsHDSpecs, HDScan, HDSMARTData, and HDRW. The HDSpecs test provides you with the hard drive's specs (its model number and firmware revision, for example). This test is akin to a first-, second-, or third-generation iPod's Disk Scan test. The test takes several minutes, so don't perform it unless the iPod is plugged into a power source. The HDSMARTData test provides a summary of the drive's S.M.A.R.T. (Self-Monitoring, Analysis, and Reporting Technology) informationthe drive's self-diagnostic data. Finally, HDRW is the drive's read/write test.The HDScan test is one of the few useful-for-end-user tests. The first three generations of iPod had a Disk Scan test that could be invoked by resetting the iPod and holding down Back, Forward, Select, and Menu. This key combination isn't possible on click wheel iPods and no other secret key combo has been introduced for recent iPods. Accessing the test through Diagnostic Mode is the only way to do it.Audio.
This screen leads you to two tests, Playback and Mic. Pressing Select in the Playback test screen causes the iPod to blast a short burst of audio. Plug a microphone with a miniplug connector into the iPod and invoke the Mic test to record a few seconds of audio.PowerA2Dtests.
This test leads to a host of power tests that check the battery as well as input charging.Sleep.
This screen takes you to two sleep testsSleepShort and SleepForever. Invoking SleepShort puts the iPod to sleep for a few seconds. SleepForever shuts down the iPod.
