Selection ToolsAlthough there are a mess o' ways to make a selection in Photoshop (we'll look at just about all of them in this chapter), there are three basic selection tools in the Tool palette: the Marquee tool, the Lasso tool, and the Magic Wand (see Figure 8-1). While some people eschew these tools for the more highfalutin' selection techniques, we find them invaluable for much of our day-to-day work. Figure 8-1. Selection toolsFigure 8-2. Adding, subtracting, and intersecting selections[View full size image] Figure 8-3. Transforming a selection[View full size image] MarqueeThe Marquee tool is the most basic of all the selection tools. It lets you draw a rectangle or oval selection by clicking and dragging. If you hold down the Shift key, the marquee is constrained to a square or a circle, depending on whether you have chosen Rectangle or Ellipse in the Marquee Options bar. (Note that if you've already made a selection, the Shift key adds to the selection instead.) If you hold down the Option key, the selection is centered on where you clicked.Tip: Pull Out a Single LineIf you've ever tried to select a single row of pixels in an image by dragging the marquee, you know that it can drive you batty faster than Mrs. Gulch's chalk scraping. The Single Row and Single Column selection tools (click and hold the mouse button down on the Marquee tool to get them) are designed for just this purpose. We use them to clean up screen captures, or to delete thin borders around an image. They're also useful with video captures, because each pixel row often equals a video scan line.You can cycle through the rectangular, elliptical, single row, and single column selection tools by choosing from the Tool palette, but it's faster to press M once to select the tool, then press Shift-M to cycle through the tools (Option-clicking on the Marquee tool in the Tool palette also cycles through them).Tip: Selecting Thicker Columns and RowsIf you want a column or row that's more than one pixel wide/tall, set the selection style to Fixed Size on the Options bar, and type the thickness of the selection into the Height or Width field (note that you have to type a measurement value, like "px" for pixels, or "cm" for centimeters). In the other field, type some number that's obviously larger than the image, like 10,000px. When you click on the image, the row or column is selected at the thickness you want.Tip: Selecting that Two-by-ThreeYou've laid out a page with a hole for a photo that's 2 by 3 inches. Now you want to make a 2-by-3 selection in Photoshop. No problem: Choose Constrained Aspect Ratio from the Style popup menu in the Options bar (when you have the Marquee tool selected). Photoshop lets you type in that 2-by-3 ratio.If you're looking to select a particular-sized area, you can select Fixed Size from the Style popup menu, and type any measurement you want ("in" for inches, "px" for pixels, and so on). LassoThe Lasso tool lets you create a freeform outline of a selection. Wherever you drag the mouse, the selection follows until you finally let go of the mouse button and the selection is automatically closed for you (there's no such thing as an open-ended selection in Photoshop; see Figure 8-4). Figure 8-4. Lasso selections[View full size image] Magnetic LassoThe Magnetic Lasso tool (it, too, is hiding in the Tool palette behind the Lasso tool) lets you draw out selections faster than the regular Lasso tool. This tool can seem like magic or it can seem like a complete waste of timeit all depends on three things: the image, your technique, and your attitude.To use the Magnetic Lasso tool, click once along the edge of the object you're trying to select, then drag the mouse along the edge of the selection (you don't have toand shouldn'thold down the mouse button while moving the mouse). As you move the mouse, Photoshop "snaps" the selection to the object's edge. When you're done, click on the first point in the selection again (or triple-click to close the path with a final straight line).So the first rule is: Only use this tool when you're selecting something in your image that has a distinct edge. In fact, the more distinct the better, because the program is really following the contrast between pixels. The lower the contrast, the more the tool gets confused and loses the path.Here are a few more rules that will help your technique.Be picky with your paths. If you don't like how the selection path looks, you can always move the mouse backward over the path to erase part of it. If Photoshop has already dropped an anchor point along the path (it does this every now and again), you can remove the last point by pressing the Delete key. Then just start moving the mouse again to start the new selection path.Click to drop your own anchor points. For instance, the Magnetic Lasso tool has trouble following sharp corners; they usually get rounded off. If you click at the vertex of the corner, the path is forced to pass through that point.Vary the Lasso Width as you go. The Lasso Width (in the Options bar) determines how close to an edge the Magnetic Lasso tool must be to select it. In some respects it determines how sloppy you can be while dragging the tool, but it becomes very important when selecting within tight spots, like the middle of a "V". In general, you should use a large width for smooth areas, and a small width for more detailed areas.Fortunately, you can increase or decrease this setting while you move the mouse by pressing the square bracket keys on your keyboard. (For extra credit, set Other Cursors to Precise in the General Preferences dialog box; that way you can see the size of the Lasso Width.) Also, Shift-[ and Shift-] set the Lasso Width to the lowest or highest value (one or 40). If you use a pressure-sensitive tablet, turn on the Stylus Pressure checkbox on the Options bar; the pressure then relates directly to Lasso Width.Sometimes you want a straight line. You can get a straight line with the Magnetic Lasso tool by Option-clicking once (at the beginning of the segment) and then clicking again (at the end of the segment).Occasionally, customize your Frequency and Edge Contrast settings. These settings (on the Options bar) control how often Photoshop drops an anchor point and how much contrast between pixels it's looking for along the edge. In theory, a more detailed edge requires more anchor points (a higher frequency setting), and selecting an object in a low-contrast image requires a lower contrast threshold. To be honest, we're much more likely to switch to a different selection tool or technique before messing with these settings. The last rule is patience. Nobody ever gets a perfect selection with the Magnetic Lasso tool. It's not designed to make perfect selections; it's designed to make a reasonably good approximation that you can edit. We cover editing selections in "Quick Masks," later in this chapter.Tip: Scrolling While SelectingIt's natural to zoom in close when you're dragging the Magnetic Lasso tool around. Nothing wrong with that. But unless you have an obscenely large monitor, you won't be able to see the whole of the object you're selecting. No problem; the Grabber Hand works just fine while you're selectingjust hold down the Spacebar and drag the image around. You can also press the + and - (plus and minus) keys to zoom in and out while you make the selection. Magic WandThe last selection tool in the Tool palette is the Magic Wand, so-called more for its icon than for its prestidigitation. When you click on an image with the Magic Wand (dragging has no effect), Photoshop selects every neighboring pixel with the same or similar gray level or color. "Neighboring" means that the pixels must be touching on at least one side (see Figure 8-5). If you want to select all the similar-toned pixels in the image, whether they're touching or not, turn off the Contiguous checkbox in the Options bar before clicking. Figure 8-5. Magic Wand selectionsFigure 8-6. Reverse selectingFloating SelectionsWe need to take a quick diversion off the road of making selections and into the world of what happens when you move a selection. Photoshop has traditionally had a feature called floating selections. A floating selection is a temporary layer just above the currently selected layer; as soon as you deselect the floating selection, it "drops down" into the layer, replacing whatever pixels were below it. When you move a selection of pixels within an image, Photoshop acts as though those pixels were on a layer. Unfortunately, while these floating selections act like layers, they don't show up in the Layers palette.The Photoshop engineering team has been trying to get rid of floating selections for years, but there are still a few instances where they appear. In general, however, we prefer to avoid floating selections and instead move pixels to a real layer for accurate positioning.Tip: Forcing a FloatIf you want to cut out the pixels and float them (so that a blank spot remains where the pixels were), you can drag the selection with the Move tool. (You can get the Move tool temporarily by holding down the Command key.) If you'd rather copy the pixels into a floating selection, you can hold down the Option/Alt key while dragging. Note: The floating selections doesn't appear on the Layers palette.Tip: Floating Selections Are Layers, TooYou can change the mode of a floating selection to Multiply, Screen, Overlay, or any of the others. You can even change its opacity. But if the floating selection doesn't appear in the Layers palette, how are you to make these changes? After floating the pixels, select Fade from the Edit menu. (Nonintuitive, but true.) However, as soon as you try to paint on it, or run a filter, or do almost anything else interesting to the floating selection, Photoshop deselects it and drops it back down to the layer below it. That's one reason we would rather just place pixels onto a real layer before messing with them. |